Want to learn about North Mexican food? Looking for North Mexican recipes? Read Karla Zazueta’s guide to North Mexican cuisine, then learn about the food from Mexico City and Peruvian food in our local guides.

Words and recipes extracted from Karla Zazueta’s book Norteña: Authentic Family Recipes from the North of Mexico (£26, Pavilion Books). Photography: Joe Woodhouse. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

North Mexican cuisine

The northern part of Mexico is generally arid and hot, the majority of its landscape being covered with endless deserts, like the Vizcaíno Desert in Baja California or the Sonoran Desert in Sonora. Meat features prominently in the northern Mexican diet and so, besides being extremely friendly, people from the north of Mexico love grilling. Organising a carne asada (northern Mexican barbecue) isn’t reserved for special occasions but instead is something that they do all the time.

A good norteño (a person from the north of Mexico) loves eating steak tacos, machaca (dried beef, which is finely shredded) burritos, chilorio (pork marinated in chillies and spices), lamb barbacoa, birria and more. Pinto beans are also commonly served to accompany many dishes – they are usually just fried or sometimes prepared as frijoles puercos (pinto beans with chorizo, bacon and chipotle chilli) or frijoles charros (beans with bacon, pickled jalapeño and spices). People here tend to prefer flour tortillas over corn for making burritos, quesadillas or tacos, but corn tortillas are enjoyed as well. Seafood and fish also play an important role, especially for those living by the coast. I grew up in Ensenada, a coastal town in Baja California, the home state of Baja fish tacos, so we used to eat fish cooked in many different ways, such as fried or in the oven, as well as a lot of other seafood in the form of ceviche, seafood cocktails and broths.

There are 14 regions in Mexico that produce wine, with two of the most important ones located in the north – Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California and Valle de Parras in Coahuila. Wine is therefore the beverage of choice for us during a special occasion, but we also love drinking a cold beer, agua fresca (a drink made with fresh fruit) or tejuino (a fermented corn with lime juice drink) on a very hot day.

Six of the nine states that make up northern Mexico border the United States, so that has also greatly influenced the way of being, living and eating in the region. For instance, we enjoy having Mexicanized hot dogs after watching a good baseball game.

The cuisine of the north of Mexico that I grew up with is the combination of cultures brought by the immigrants that have settled here over the past two centuries as well as the natives indigenous to the region. The result is a versatile cuisine that is evolving and changing all the time.

North Mexican recipes

Chicken red hominy soup (Pozole rojo de pollo)

Popular all around Mexico and consumed long before the Spaniards arrived, pozole was often made as an offering to Xochiquetzal, the god of fertility. Nowadays, pozole is made for national celebrations, like Independence Day or Day of the Dead. However, its versatility means it’s also great to make on a sick day to clear a cold. There are three types of pozole: white, green and red. The red version is very common in the north of Mexico and the guajillo chillies used in the broth create a distinctive bright red colour.

Fish tacos (tacos de pescado baja)

I’m proud to say that these tacos are 100% native to Ensenada, even though everyone knows them as Baja tacos. This famous recipe was reportedly created by Don Mario in the 1960s, in a taqueria at Mercado Negro, the city’s fish market. He used to sell fried fish in the Bachigualato quarter of Sinaloa, and the fishermen started to ask him to serve the fish in tortillas. That is how the fish taco was born. The original recipe was made with pieces of angel shark fish, although nowadays it can be fried and served as a taco with any white, meaty fish. Later on, another taquero, Zeferino Mancilla Fortuna, added the batter to the fish, not knowing that this would make these tacos world-famous.

Mexican flan (flan mexicano)

This recipe for super-creamy flan is easy to make and can be prepared a day in advance. There are different versions of this dessert – some add whole eggs (like this one), others only egg yolks, others use cream cheese. You can also add an extra punch of flavour by including some grated orange zest on top when serving.

The scenery, the sea air and some of the country’s very best produce… Cornwall has a lot to offer, especially when it comes to food. Destination expert, Camille Kenny-Rider, author of Weekend Journals, tells us where to feast on the finest fare from pub grub to seafood platters, fine dining to seaside picnics. Read on to discover the best restaurants in Cornwall – from neighbourhood bistros to fine dining and pubs serving top-notch seafood.

While you’re here, find out where to stay in Cornwall, or for more like this, check out our guides to the best restaurants in the Cotswolds or the best restaurants in the Lake District.

Jump to:

• olive’s top 10 best restaurants in Cornwall
• Foodie town spotlight: Newlyn
• Where to stay in Cornwall
• Foodie day trips around Cornwall

olive’s top 10 best places to eat and drink in Cornwall

We’ve included insider information about what to order where below, plus plenty more places to visit, but for those who want a quick insight into our favourite spots in the city, here are Camille’s picks.

• For neighbourhood bistro vibes: Flora at Trelowarren Estate
• Farm to fine dining: Crocadon Farm
• Seafood pub: Gurnard’s Head
• The seafront spot: The Rocket Store
• Wine bar chic: St Eia
• Tiny taproom: The Verdant Seafood Bar
• For Cornish produce: Tre, Pol & Pen farm shop
• Harbourside brews: Origin Roastery
• The best bakery: Gorse
• The local hangout: Four Boys

Foodie town spotlight: Newlyn

Newlyn is located in south-west Cornwall, next door to the more familiar Penzance. It is a sleepy fishing village and port, and is home to the celebrated fish market that supplies many of Cornwall’s best kitchens. Start the day with a coffee at Lovett’s which uses locally roasted Origin beans and showcases sweet treats from Oona’s Cakes. Lovett’s operates as a specialist wine bar in the evenings so there is reason to go back later in the day. Argoe is found on the water’s edge, serving fresh seafood in a wood-clad building, the succinct menu dictated by the morning’s catch.

Tolcarne Inn is the perfect spot for Sunday lunch, a charming historic maritime pub with Ben Tunnicliffe at the helm. An evening meal is best enjoyed at Mackerel Sky, a tiny restaurant lovingly run by Nina and Jamie MacLean, and serves tasty seafood-focussed small plates, from crab nachos to crispy sole with katsu curry sauce. If the weather is playing ball, treat yourself to an indulgent ice cream at Jelbert’s  – it only serves vanilla, but make sure you get your ball topped with Cornish clotted cream and a flake! Stay at Chapel House, in the neighbouring town of Penzance, a charming boutique hotel housed in a former arts club.

Where to stay in Cornwall

Trevose Harbour House, St Ives

• Doubles from £165, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk

The best bed and breakfast in St Ives… Breakfast is an art form at Trevose Harbour House, in the higgledy-piggledy artistic hub that is St Ives (home of the Tate Modern and the Barbara Hepworth Museum). A jaunty boutique B&B, with six nautical-themed rooms, a smattering of Ercol and harbour views, the focus is firmly on local and organic. Start with a smoothie ‘shot of the day’ then choose from their version of the continental or a hot dish. The continental is a smorgasbord of homemade bircher muesli, granola parfait, organic yoghurt, fresh fruit, seasonal fruit compote, homemade organic multigrain granola, freshly baked pain au chocolat, pain aux raisins and local organic bread smeared with homemade jams. Along with the full English, cooked options include a hot croissant filled with runny Cornish brie, ham and tomato.

Doubles from £165, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk

Kudhva, Tintagel

• Doubles from £143, check availability at booking.com or kudhva.com

Drive down narrow lanes flanked by towering green hedges on Cornwall’s wild Atlantic coast to discover Kudhva, an off-grid glampsite near Trebarwith Strand. Set up by leatherworker Louise Middleton, this disused quarry has been transformed into a verdant enclave where visitors can stay in tree tents, rigged above ground, or in one of four kudhva – compact wood-and-metal cabins on stilts. In the midst of this bucolic setting is a self-catering glamping site. Expect flushing toilets, solar-powered showers, your own fire pit, a communal kitchen and even an outdoor hot tub, while the rustic surroundings are reflected in the décor – much of the furniture and structures are wooden and handmade, with jars of velvety fern fronds and wildflowers decorating most surfaces.

Doubles from £143, check availability at booking.com or kudhva.com

olive’s top 10 best restaurants in Cornwall

Flora at Trelowarren Estate, Helston

Neighbourhood bistro vibes

A family-run café, bistro and bakery nestled deep within the unspoilt Trelowarren Estate. The eatery is situated in the historic stable yard and is run by friendly and talented couple, Tim Spedding (who previously cooked at The Clove Club and P Franco) and his creative wife Louise Rødkjær. Lunch might include new potato and sorrel soup with soda bread, wood-fired pollock with summer herbs and aïoli, or sprouting broccoli, kale and gremolata pizza. There is always a counter full of irresistible cakes and pastries, and on Sundays Tim serves a refined but relaxed set menu lunch in the dining room. floranewyard.co.uk

Crocadon Farm, Saltash

Farm to fine dining

Crocadon Farm has been a labour of love for Dan Cox, a Roux scholarship winner who has worked in some of the country’s best Michelin-recognised restaurants, before working tirelessly to transform this exceptional 120-acre farm into the ultra-sustainable field-to-fork mecca it is today. Surrounded by the farm that grows and nurtures most of the produce on your plate, this restaurant is assured and original while also giving back to the environment. crocadon.farm

Gurnard’s Head, Saint Ives

Seafood pub

This vibrant, mustard yellow gastropub stands out among the stark green fields that surround it. The hearty menu is well received by locals and tourists alike, and the Sunday roast is particularly popular, best enjoyed after a bracing coastal walk. Head chef Max Wilson excels with classic fish dishes and innovative seasonal inventions, driven by the changing seasons. gurnardshead.co.uk

The Rocket Store, Boscastle

Seafront spot

A small blackboard states the daily menu at this under the radar spot. Always filled to the brim with hungry locals, the kitchen creates innovative dishes championing local seafood but with the addition of bold spice mixtures and intriguing exotic flavour combinations, such as mackerel with nahm jim or monkfish with saffron broth. The quirky eatery is found inside an old rocket shop in the quiet fishing port of Boscastle. therocketstore.co.uk

St Eia, Saint Ives

Wine bar chic

A welcome break from the tourist traps of well-trodden Saint Ives, this chic, intimate wine bar pours rare, low-intervention bottles alongside a short menu of bistro-inspired food. Chat to the knowledgeable team who will help you pick a glass you’ll love, or buy a bottle to go. steiawines.com

The Verdant Seafood Bar, Falmouth

Tiny taproom

Those in the know visit Verdant Seafood Bar, tucked away on a side street in Falmouth, Cornwall’s main student town. The tiny hangout is the main taproom for Verdant Brewing Company, which makes a selection of unfiltered, vegan, hoppy craft beer. The company was founded in 2014 by three friends and the venue serves from eight taps – four classics and four ever-changing seasonal options. Get cosy at one of the few tables and order a few plates of seafood (we recommend the lobster and crayfish roll and fried seafood balls) to accompany a refreshing pint of Lightbulb beer. verdantbrewing.co

Tre, Pol & Pen farm shop, Launceston

Cornish produce

Just over the Devon-Cornwall border, Tre, Pol & Pen is an encyclopaedic farm shop showcasing the best Cornish ingredients and products, sourced from Launceston to Land’s End. It is an ideal first stop if you are staying in self-catering accommodation while in Cornwall – stock up on fruit and vegetables from the Tamar Valley, its own Red Ruby beef, and creamy Trewithen Dairy products. There is an airy on-site café for light lunches or a caffeine break from driving. trepolandpen.co.uk

Origin Roastery, Porthleven

Harbourside brews

Origin Coffee is one of Cornwall’s greatest foodie success stories – founded by Tom Sobey in 2004, this exceptional specialist coffee roasting company now supplies coffee shops all over the country, with its own cafés in Cornwall, London, Bristol and Edinburgh. The huge roastery is the heart of the business, a great place to enjoy brunch and a perfectly poured cup of coffee. The original Porthleven café nearby is also worth a visit if you fancy a flat white with a harbour view. origincoffee.co.uk

Gorse, Newquay

Buttery bakes

Cornwall might be best known for its traditional savoury pasties but the Gorse team is introducing a (dare we say it) more refined French style of viennoiserie. Housed in a sparse industrial space on the outskirts of Newquay, this creative bakery presents trays of alluring buttery bakes, from Marmite and cheddar swirls to seasonal fruit topped Danish patries. Perch at the communal table, order a coffee and choose from the tempting array of breakfast treats. @gorse_cornwall

Four Boys, Wadebridge

Local hangout

Avoid the Rick Stein fanatics and instead hop on the scenic pedestrian ferry from Padstow to Rock for lunch in peace. This hip café and restaurant overlooks the estuary, and serves a daily menu of comfort food, from sea bass crudo to its iconic smash burger, and meringue with poached rhubarb and cream for dessert. fourboyscafe.co.uk

Three foodie day trips around Cornwall

Trevibban Mill, Padstow

Cornish wine continues to thrive and Trevibban Mill is leading the movement with its award-winning wines. Visit the winery, situated on the slopes of the Issey Brook near Padstow, and enjoy a meal at the in-house restaurant Barnaby’s, which is run by the Prawn on the Lawn team. Guided tours takes place on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, while tutored wine tastings are available Tuesday to Saturday. trevibbanmill.com

Feasting with Simon Stallard at Hidden Hut, Portscatho

Simon Stallard’s alfresco feasts have become a phenomenal sell-out success and have popularised the notion of beach dining in Cornwall. If you don’t manage to book a place at the table for one of his BBQ lobsters and seafood paella events, you can visit his Hidden Hut café for wholesome homemade food after a walk along the Roseland Peninsula. Simon and his wife have also opened Tatams café and The Standard Inn in the nearby town of Portscatho. hiddenhut.co.uk

Coombeshead Farm, Launceston

Everything you need for the perfect weekend break in Cornwall – a foodie destination (founded by chefs Tom Adams and April Bloomfield) with the added bonus of beautiful bedrooms. Dinner in the barn is a highlight of a stay here but you can also take part in bread making workshops or enjoy a Coombeshead picnic on the grounds surrounding the main house – there’s a reason you’ll find Coombeshead bread on the menu at restaurants up and down the country. coombesheadfarm.co.uk

Looking for restaurants or takeaways in St Albans? Want to know where to eat in the cathedral city? Local Charlotte Morgan shares her insider tips for the best places to eat in St Albans, including where to find the best cocktails, cinnamon buns and tacos.

For more travel guides, check out our best foodie day trips from London by train and small towns across the UK that every foodie should visit.

olive’s best places to eat and drink in St Albans

• Best for Italian: Per Tutti
• Best for pizza: Gracey’s Pizza
• Best for takeaway Vietnamese: Taste of Vietnam
• Best for sharing plates: Boot Cantina at The Boot
• Best for cocktails: No Nuisance
• Best for puddings: The Pudding Stop
• Best for afternoon tea: Sopwell House
• Best for ice cream: Darlish
• Best for a sustainable dinner: Lussmanns
• Best for waffles: The Waffle House
• Best for lunch: The Potting Shed
• Best for a country pub: The Prae Wood Arms
• Best for cheese: Bishop’s Cave

Best restaurants in St Albans

Per Tutti

Best for Italian

“For everyone” indeed, family-run Per Tutti manages to keep us all happy: bustling groups of friends, young families hoping for a kids’ menu (two courses and a drink for under £8), and quiet couples in search of romance will all find sanctuary here.

From the outside, with its pretty red bricks and curved bay window, Per Tutti looks like a tiny trattoria, but it’s a rabbit warren inside, with tables tucked into all sorts of corners and an expansive dining room upstairs (the place to be for big groups).

Our preference is the cosy, softly lit space on the ground floor, where olive-green panelled walls and low-hanging pendant lights set the scene for intimacy. Risotto gamberetti, with its fat prawns and flecks of chilli, is excellent, but we suggest picking from the pasta menu: homemade, paper-thin ravioli stuffed with velvety butternut squash, or long strips of fettuccine in a rich Italian sausage, red wine and rosemary sauce are our current favourites. pertutti.co.uk

Gracey’s Pizza

Best for pizza

Who would have thought that Chiswell Green, a quiet conurbation halfway between St Albans city centre and the M25, would be home to 2024’s most talked-about St Albans eatery? Gracey’s Pizza, next to the village store, is so popular that townsfolk like me have been waking up early to guarantee a slot on its online click-and-collect system.

It’s a tiny joint, with one or two tables inside, a few places to perch outside and an open kitchen where the family-run team transform smooth balls of 36-hour fermented dough into American-style pizzas with crunchy crusts, charred air bubbles and a San Marzano tomato sauce. It’s a sauce so flavoursome and fresh that one pizza, the marinara, doesn’t even need cheese on top to be a success – just a few shavings of sweet garlic and fresh oregano (no dried herbs here).

Whether it’s the pizza sauce, hand-cut slices of spicy Calabrian salami, 36-month aged parmesan, or dough made from flour milled at nearby Redbournbury Mill (a beautiful working mill – visit for bags of flour and fat eccles cakes), it’s the quality of ingredients that really makes these pizzas shine. If you can only choose one, get The New Haven – baked extra-long for optimal charring, with a base thick with sauce, two types of mozzarella, Pecorino Romano and garlic. graceyspizza.com

Taste of Vietnam

Best for takeaway Vietnamese

Taste of Vietnam is the passion project of local Anne Nguyen, who was born and raised in Hue (the “cuisine capital” of Vietnam). Sniff the air outside her house and you’ll detect lemongrass, roasted peanuts and slow-cooked pork – Anne cooks in her own kitchen, and orders are picked up from the front door.

Try comforting pho (flat noodles, pink beef slices, crinkled veg and a fragrant pour-over broth), transparent summer rolls stuffed with rainbow veg and king prawns and served with ruby red nuoc cham dipping sauce, and authentic mi quang, if only for the delicate shard of sesame seed-studded Vietnamese poppadum that it comes with. Dairy doesn’t feature heavily (“we rely more on the light, fresh flavour of herbs and vegetables,” says Anne), so vegans are well catered for – try gingery wonton noodle soup, or sunshine yellow tofu curry).

As well as her dinner menu, Anne offers takeaway bánh mì – huge baguettes spread with Anne’s own chilli and lemongrass paste, packed with everything from Vietnamese chicken, to shiitake mushroom sausages. Best eaten in Clarence Park (close to Anne’s home) with a cup of chilled Vietnamese coffee – dark coffee made wickedly sweet with a thick layer of condensed milk.

Check out @TasteofVietnam to see Anne’s menu (order via DM) and for news about cooking classes and pop-up St Albans restaurants.

Boot Cantina at The Boot

Best for sharing plates

Built in 1420 right next to the city’s Clock Tower (the pub walls would have witnessed the very first Wars of the Roses battle), The Boot and its gnarled wooden beams has always been worth visiting. But, now that Boot Cantina is here, it’s an absolute must.

The team launched its sharing fusion menu in 2021. Hand-sized tacos are piled high with vibrant and eclectic toppings, including rich confit duck leg with oi muchim (a kind of spicy cucumber salad), gochujang mayo and chipotle black cherry jam; and slow-cooked pork with jalapeño coleslaw, chipotle barbecue sauce and pickled pink onions.

It’s all very relaxed – go with your pals and order as many different taco types as you can (but leave room for the chocolate-stuffed churros). Want to keep the party going? Head to The Boot’s sophisticated sister pub, Dylans at The Kings Arms on George Street (a 45-second walk away), for craft beer and specialist cocktails in a 15th-century tudor building. It serves an excellent espresso martini made with 58 and Co British vodka, Mr Black Coffee Liqueur and The Gentlemen Barsita’s espresso. @bootcantina

No Nuisance

Best for cocktails

Also on George Street (probably the prettiest shopping street in the city) is No Nuisance, a new cocktail bar from mixologist maestro Alastair Burgess, owner of the London speakeasy bar Happiness Forgets.

Head here to sip exceptional cocktails in a trendy, low-lit, moody bar decorated with splashes of crimson and mustard-yellow bar stools. There are at least 10 cocktails to choose from, including classics (we love the spicy margs for their chilli oil kick) and innovative concoctions. Brighter Later is an irresistible, fragrant blend of mezcal, umeshu Japanese liqueur, amontillado sherry and genmaicha tea – sweet and slightly sour, with a buttery, toasty aroma. @nonuisancebar

The Pudding Stop

Best for puddings

Albanians jumped for joy when Johnny Shepherd, an original The Great British Bake Off contestant, decided to sell homemade puddings from a little van (the “pudmobile”) outside the train station. The locals wanted more, so in 2013, Johnny opened The Pudding Stop, a glass-fronted bakery and café on Verulam Road. His empire has now extended to shops in nearby Harpenden and Redbourn, too.

Grab breakfast on the way to work (Johnny’s helter-skelter cinnamon buns are squidgy, with epic amounts of sugary cinnamon butter), pop in for a chai latte and a square of salty-sweet peanut butter brownie, or drop in for late-night rhubarb and vanilla custard donuts. If you’re eating in, try the sticky toffee pudding: a fat wedge of dark, treacly sponge drizzled in a gooey sauce that tastes of muscovado. Or, go for fudgy banana loaf with warm butterscotch sauce and milk ice cream. thepuddingstop.com

Sopwell House

Best for afternoon tea

Sopwell House Hotel is a grand affair, with more than 100 rooms, two restaurants, a spa and 12 acres of grounds to its name. Among all of that, the best place to relax is in the cocktail lounge, where afternoon tea is served. It’s a long, breezy room that starts at a marble-topped bar and stretches all the way to a library, with little alcoves and giant sash windows along the way.

Waiters make the rounds with silver trays of sandwich refills, and scones are well-risen and shiny on top, with fluffy interiors and a good bite. But, by far the best tier of Sopwell House’s afternoon tea stand is the homemade cake selection. Bright-yellow lemon macarons burst with zest, their shiny shells sandwiched together with a thin layer of sharp raspberry jam. Little pastry cases come filled with soft crème patisserie and topped with blackberries, and deliciously moist squares of carrot cake are decorated with chocolate feathers. sopwellhouse.co.uk

Try more of our favourite afternoon teas in London.

Darlish

Best for ice cream

Darlish, the Persian ice cream specialists, set up shop here in spring 2018, bursting onto the scene with a clever seasonal special – hot cross bun ice cream sandwiches. All the ice cream is made by hand in St Albans, and it sits in creamy mounds under silver domes on the countertop. Blackboards spell out the day’s flavours: floral orange blossom studded with pistachios and apricot, aromatic coconut and cardamom, or sweet cream and sour cherry.

There are sorbets, too (vegan coconut and raspberry rhubarb, with an intensely sweet and sharp berry flavour, is our favourite) and you can garnish your chosen flavour with a sprinkle of homemade halva or sesame brittle. Turkish coffee, deep-red Persian tea and mini cones for children are also available. A couple of tables line the walls, but you’re best off moseying around the weekend market (which dates back to the ninth century) or nearby St Albans cathedral while you lick – this is a very pretty part of town. darlish.com

Lussmanns

Best for a sustainable dinner

Lussmanns is the kind of neighbourhood restaurant that you can always rely on. The bright, modern space is a reflection of what to expect from the menu: clean, colourful plates of food, smartly presented without pretension. Menu highlights include a pretty tangle of seasonal salad leaves, lovage pesto, roast beetroot and local Wobbly Bottom goat’s cheese to start, and plaice with North Sea brown shrimps and a coin of melting paprika butter for main.

Ninety five per cent of the ingredients used at Lussmanns are grown or produced in the UK, all the fish is Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) approved, the beef and mutton is organic (try the latter in an aromatic kofta with a brioche bun and cucumber mint raita), and the British Saddleback pork is woodland-reared.

Order a pint of Farrs Brew bitter, Mad Squirrel pilsner, Zealous pilsner or Three Brewers classic English ale with your dinner – all of them are brewed in Hertfordshire. lussmanns.com

The Waffle House

Best for waffles

Opposite a quaint ford and over the brow of an 18th-century brick bridge, The Waffle House is well worth the 10-minute walk from St Albans city centre. It sits in the middle of St Michael’s village (a winding road lined with red-brick cottages and ancient pubs) and is housed in a 16th-century watermill.

Choose from a menu devoted to Belgian waffles made from organic flour milled just three miles away, including a breakfast special of smoked back bacon, fried banana and grilled vine tomatoes. Make a feast of it by ordering a savoury waffle to start (topping highlights include slow-cooked barbecue pulled pork with homemade slaw) and a sweet waffle to finish. The latter are piled high with everything from banana and crumbled flapjack, to pecans and butterscotch sauce – there’s always a seasonal special, too, such as blueberry-studded waffles with wild blueberry sauce.

Help yourself to as much maple syrup as you like, and don’t forget to marvel at the original water wheel and millstones before you leave. Once only a breakfast and lunchtime spot, The Waffle House is now open for dinner, too.  wafflehouse.co.uk

The Potting Shed

Best for lunch

Carpenters Nursery, with its position just off the main road to Sandridge village, is easy to miss. But, locals know better than to pass by this treasure-trove of home-grown produce. It’s been both a garden centre and farm shop since 1923, selling vegetables grown in the fields right next to the building. A tiny team of three plant seeds in early spring, eventually filling the farm shop with everything from chard and marrows, to red lettuce, beetroot and Brussels sprout tops. Optimal freshness is the aim: carrots pulled and bunched in the morning are on the shop shelves an hour later. You can also pick up cereals, soaps, beers, chocolate, eggs, oil, honey and even vodka, all from Hertfordshire producers, and there’s always a hefty selection of organic breads made by Redbournbury Mill (the same folk who mill flour for The Waffle House).

Even better, a barn at the back of the farm shop has been converted into a sleek café, which transforms all that home-grown produce into breakfast, brunch and lunch. The Potting Shed is a modern, L-shaped space flanked by bifold doors that beautifully frame a rockery with open fields beyond. It’s a bucolic view, given how close you are to St Albans city centre. Mushrooms on toast for brunch may sound modest, but you’ll be served a powerful plate of punchy pickled mushrooms on sourdough with a poached egg, truffle oil and a little puff of superbly rich goat’s cheese mousse. For something bigger, try harissa-roasted sweet potato with hummus, chill and garlic kale, fried capers and tahini yogurt. There’s a separate kids’ menu and an afternoon tea option with homemade scones and local jam. pottingshedcafe.com, carpentersnursery.co.uk/farm-shop

The Prae Wood Arms

Best for a country pub

Once a standard carvery joint, this “little cottage” (as described by its original owner, Lady Frances Cooke Grimston, in 1838) has been transformed by Brunning & Price into The Prae Wood Arms, a destination pub and restaurant. You can walk to it via The Gorhambury Estate, which encompasses a roman theatre, the 16th-century ruins of a house built by Sir Nicholas Bacon, a neo-palladian mansion, babbling River Ver brooks, and dense woodland that’s home to everything from muntjacs to woodruff (a sweet-fragranced plant with tiny white flowers that taste like vanilla).

Downstairs is a warren of dining rooms, each with its own ambience from family-friendly to romantic, and most tables have views of the pub’s expansive lawn and the Gorhambury Estate beyond. There’s even a rickety wooden gate that leads from The Prae to the banks of the River Ver, which shines with wild trout. A rusty old tractor, piles of gnarled tree trunks and a gentle hill to roll down keeps kids entertained for hours, while parents watch from a terrace sheltered by an elegant iron awning.

It’s posh pub grub to eat, including braised shoulder of lamb with dauphinoise and rosemary gravy, baked whole plaice with butter sauce and, for dessert, a teeth-tingling sticky toffee pudding with matching sauce that rivals (but doesn’t quite beat) that from The Pudding Stop. To drink, order from a mighty gin menu, which is split into flavour profiles (there are 23 options in “smooth and fruity” alone), or go for a pint of Side Pocket for a Toad, a citrussy, floral golden ale that’s brewed in nearby Tring. brunningandprice.co.uk/praewoodarms

Bishop’s Cave

Best for cheese

Holywell Hill, said to be the site where Saint Alban was executed (his head apparently rolled all the way to the bottom), never used to be fashionable, but over the past decade several independent restaurants – including the aforementioned Per Tutti – have chosen it as their home. Bishop’s Cave, sister to the original Cave in Bishop’s Stortford, is the city’s first cheese, wine and craft beer emporium, and it’s housed in one of the Hill’s most historic spaces. Sloping beamed roofs, geometric tiled floors and crumbly red-brick walls ooze history, while a St Albans coat of arms, soft lighting and vintage wine crates add to the atmosphere.

Create your own cheeseboard from a fridge crammed with around 45 options (try Baron Bigod, Britain’s first unpasteurised brie; gruyère-style Red Wine Farmer, which is washed in Swiss red wine; or Darling Blue for its mellow butteriness) and eat it alongside a glass of Tuffon Hall English pinot noir. There are also more than 100 modern and craft beers to sip, including Millionaire – a decadent salted caramel milk stout made by Wild Beer. Prefer spirits? The team behind Bishop’s Cave has recently opened The Gin Cave in the shop next door, where you can pick from a menu of more than 70 small-batch gins – try a spicy, citrus-tinged Silverback Old Tom gin with lemongrass tonic. thebishopscavestalbans.co.uk, thegincave.co.uk

Looking for the best restaurants in Hastings? We’ve found the top places to eat in Hastings, a coastal town in East Sussex, for fish and chips, Italian gelato and plenty of artisan food and drink shops… 

Best Hastings restaurants and places to eat

The Thai café at Boulevard Books

No trip to Hastings is complete without an amble down George Street. It links the Old Town to the seafront and is lined with independent coffee bars, sweet shops, vintage emporiums and quirky little restaurants including the Thai café at Boulevard Books, owned by husband-and-wife team Graham and Natthawan (aka June) Frost. During the day it’s a higgledy-piggledy secondhand bookshop, with creaking floorboards and a maze of narrow corridors. But come 6:30pm and those same corridors are crammed with tiny tables (the cosiest of which is in the ‘political books’ section), laden with Thai food cooked by June. Ingredients are imported from Thailand to create as genuine a menu as possible, and it’s great for vegetarians – you can substitute the meat for tofu in almost every dish. Plus they’ll even provide a cooler for your wine (it’s bring your own). thaicafeandbookshop.com

Di Pola’s

Also on George Street is Hastings’ iconic ice cream parlour – Di Pola’s. The Italian owners make all their gelato on site, and regularly changing flavours include passionfruit; honeycomb; apple and ginger; sea salt caramel; and, our favourite, Oreo. It’s particularly milky ice cream, distinctively whippy and smooth in texture.

A. G. Hendy & Co.

Step back in time with a visit to food journalist and photographer Alastair Hendy’s Georgian shop and kitchen. He spent three years restoring the High Street building to its original state, and the result is so utterly convincing – symmetrical window displays, heavy dark wooden-panelled rooms, enamel factory lights and a front desk mahogany counter that hides the electric till – as to leave visitors spellbound. The dining room and outdoor courtyard is out the back, and to get there you have to walk through an irresistible shop stocked with vintage crockery, Denby teacups, rolling pins, Kilner jars and even enamel buckets. Food is simple sharing plates with a focus on (you guessed it) fresh fish landed by the local fleet – skate wing and capers; fish, crab and shellfish pot; and juicy brown shrimps with kohlrabi and tarragon. A word of warning: you can only eat lunch at the weekend here, with last orders at 4pm. aghendy.com

Penbuckles Deli

A charming little deli, with smart golden signage and an old-fashioned bay window piled high with artisan cheeses, wine, Trealy farm cured meats and Monmouth coffee. It’s a great place for a picnic lunch – try one of their hickory-smoked sausage rolls, or a Bombay potato bomb. There’s also a tasting room at the back that serves deli platters and craft ales for lunch. penbuckles.co.uk

The Crown

Another great Hastings Old Town spot, this time set away from the crowds on All Saints Street. It’s an independent pub, contemporary in style with local art on the walls and a dog-friendly attitude. It’s less “cosy fireside pint” and more “lively dining room”, with a sophisticated menu that makes the most of produce from over 20 local suppliers. thecrownhastings.co.uk

Rock-a-Nore Fisheries

This is a must-visit if you’re in The Stade area. Hungry humans and seagulls alike form a queue at this place, their beady eyes on the mounds of fresh cockles at the front of the shop. It’s a family business over 30 years old that specialises in smoked fish (especially salmon, kippers, conger eels and prawns) – in fact, the family smokes nearly 300kg of fish a week. If you’ve only space for one thing, let it be the hot-smoked salmon – it was invented by accident when, one Christmas, the sawdust that keeps fish cool during smoking caught fire… the punters loved it so much that it’s now made on purpose. rockanore.co.uk

Maggie’s – for fish and chips

This fish and chips café, set among the net shops, permanently sports a ‘fully booked’ sign at the bottom of its rickety stairs, and no wonder: the vast, pearly fish in its light batter escapes from the confines of its plate; the chips – crisp and floury, always double-fried – are some of the best we’ve tried. Cod and haddock comes from the fish market directly underneath it. We exit stuffed, our coats fragranced with frying and vinegar, happy as clams. (Fishmarket, Rock A Nore Rd, 01424 430205)

Two Bulls Steakhouse

Over at clever Two Bulls Steakhouse gelato from Di Polas’ is served as part of the unabashedly calorific dessert offering. This former pub has become very close to locals’ hearts thanks to some very fine Irish steak – mine, a 28-day dry-aged Angus point end (aka ‘butcher’s secret’) is as good a piece of meat as we’ve had outside the spendy London steak temples at a fraction of the price. twobulls.co.uk

Best St Leonards on Sea restaurants and places to eat

Farmyard, St Leonards on Sea

There’s sustainability on the menu at this convivial restaurant, wine bar and wine shop set among the cafes, restaurants and boutique shops of Kings Road. Dishes are centred around local and seasonal produce such as Hastings hot smoked salmon with apple,celery and walnut salad with a blue cheese dressing, while the wine list features natural, biodynamic and low-intervention wines. Sister restaurant Boatyard (boatyardstleonards.com) located in the nearby indoor food and drink Heist Market specialises in locally landed seafood including barbecued gurnard served with curry sauce. farmyardwine.com

The Royal, St Leonards on Sea

With some olive-green Farrow and Ball paint, antique wall and pendant light fittings and artwork by locally based artist Deborah Bowness,The Royal has been transformed from a bog-standard boozer opposite St Leonards-on-Sea railway station into a stylish Michelin Bib Gourmand-winning gastropub. This slice of Shoreditch-by-Sea comes courtesy of James Hickson who has previously worked in top London restaurants St John, The Canton Arms and Moro. Expect a concise but eclectic menu of simple and delicious dishes such as a classic Provencal-style pistou soup or skate wing with chard, pine nuts and raisins. theroyalstleonards.co.uk

Galleria, St Leonards on Sea

Puglia-born chef Gianluca Tozzi nurtures a relationship with Hastings’ fishing community to ensure he serves the best of the local catch at this simply decorated and intimate seafood bar. The concise, regularly changing menu offers excellent value. Start with a must order selection of Whitstable oysters followed by the likes of grilled Sussex squid with roasted peppers, capers and sour cream and smoked bacon-wrapped monkfish with bisque sauce. Wines, mostly from Italy, change seasonally in line with the menu. galleriabar.co.uk

St Clements, St Leonards on Sea

Tucked away on a side street close to the sea front, this smart yet unpretentious neighbourhood bistro has been serving up the best local seafood for nearly two decades. A meal here starts with complimentary, homemade soda bread, the perfect accompaniment to some grilled fresh fresh sardines simply dressed with fresh bay leaf, lemon, white wine and olive oil followed by line caught wild local sea bass fillet with fregola and shellfish bisque. stclementsrestaurant.co.uk

Where to stay in Hastings…

The Laindons

Doubles from £165 per night, check availability at booking.com

Hosts Sara and Jon greet guests with a tray of posh welcome snacks: homemade pitta chips, hummus, olives and a mini bottle of ice cold prosecco. But it’s more than nibbles that makes The Laindons a favourite B&B in Hastings. Location-wise, it’s ideal – right in the heart of the Old Town, with both the First In Last Out pub (which brews its own ales) and the Electric Palace arthouse cinema a stone’s throw away. The rest of the High Street is a jumble of vintage shops, delis and Georgian Grade II listed buildings, including The Laindons itself, which sits above a coffee bar, No. 23, also owned by Sara and Jon. That means good aromas filling the building every morning.

Rooms are Scandi coastal in design – greys, white and blues, influenced by the time Sara and Jon spent living in Sweden – and the beds are made from recycled wood, crafted by local carpenters. We loved the original fireplace in our room and giant crossword poster in the bathroom, designed around Hastings and its attractions. Extra personal touches include earplugs for those guests bothered by seagulls; a wicker basket full of treats on the landing (just pay for what you eat); and a converted loft that acts as a bar – help yourself to a chilled glass of local sparkling wine.

Breakfast is taken at the back of the house in a sort of suspended conservatory that overlooks the tufty East Hill nature park. The room is cheerily bright, being so flooded with sunlight, and perfectly matched to bedrooms: there are chunky wooden tables and squashy couches for post-breakfast lounging.

Food is elegant and delicious – toasted fruit bread is topped with ricotta, nectarine slithers and almonds; muesli is homemade and packed with coconut, caramelised bananas and lime zest; vibrant jams are made locally by Martha & Ed’s Kitchen; and pear and apple juice comes from Ringden Farm, less than 20 miles away. Don’t miss the coffee – Jon roasts it downstairs and, if you’re interested, he can tell you about the origin of that day’s bean.

Doubles from £165 per night, check availability at booking.com

Written by Andy Lynes, Charlotte Morgan and Marina O’Loughlin 

A. G. Hendy & Co. images courtesy of Alastair Hendy

Looking for the best Spanish hotel to visit? We’ve found the best Spanish hotels for food lovers in Barcelona, Madrid, Ibiza and everywhere in between. Whether you’re on a budget or looking for luxury, need a city break or a relaxing vineyard getaway, check out our round-up of the best Spanish hotels for something for everyone.

For more travel and hotel inspiration, check out our guide to the best Italian hotels or the best Paris hotels, or get more ideas for your Spanish holiday with our best Spanish trips for foodies.

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Best Spanish hotels

Castilla Termal Brihuega, Castilla-La Mancha

• From £226 per room, check availability at booking.com

Surrounded by lavender fields, this little town in the region of La Alcarria is home to a new boutique hotel in a restored cloth factory. Perfect for food lovers seeking to make new discoveries, it showcases regional specialities, while its thermal waters provide an opportunity to fully relax and rejuvenate.

Breakfast is a delight: all the Spanish goodies like jamón ibérico, pan con tomate and tortilla, plus local ingredients like manchego, honeycomb and tarta de uvas – a grape sponge cake which teams well with the more contemporary touch in the cold drip coffee offered. At dinner, rustic plates like kid goat and the region’s famous rum baba style cake are served in the large glass-domed restaurant. Nearby food experiences include truffle hunting at family-owned TrufaZero, which supplies many restaurants in the region. Guests can dig for the black gold sniffed out by their dog, Nino.

Brihuega’s thermal spa promotes a sense of wellness and relaxation with an outdoor pool, massage jets and a bespoke lavender treatment – a two-hour ritual which includes a lavender scrub, wrap and massage. Exposed brick, wooden beams and floors, a neutral colour palette and dried floral displays add to the calming effect. castillatermal.com

From £226 per room, check availability at booking.com

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Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel, Ibiza

• Doubles from €245, check availability at booking.com.

Luxury meets nature in a boutique hotel with exquisite indoor-outdoor design, a spa set within orange groves and a hard-working farm.

White-washed buildings, manicured gardens and glistening swimming pools surrounded by huge, pristine day beds all create a gorgeous first impression. Discrete, secret VIP deluxe suites are where celebrities can holiday with complete privacy. So far, so luxe. But a stroll through the orange groves to the hotel’s vast vegetable plot reveals how sustainable and farm-to-fork this family-owned estate is. Solar panels and an on-site well supply power and water to the gardens, pools, spa and rooms.

Herbs and botanicals are used in rejuvenating spa treatments. Figs, tomatoes, cucumbers and pomegranates are picked that day, and served just minutes and metres aways in the hotel’s sunny, vine-covered veranda. The garden also supplies its nearby, laid-back sister restaurant, Aubergine by Atzaró, where clever combinations like roasted aubergine carpaccio, cherry tomatoes, feta, dates, pistachio and rocket pesto create texture and zing. At Atzaró beach club, tuna ceviche with mango, chilli, coriander and tiger’s milk is light and flavour-packed.

Design at Atzaró Agroturismo references Ibiza’s natural beauty with a profusion of plants, natural wicker and wood, bright whites, with splashes of colour provided through bougainvillea or swimming pool azure. atzaro.com

Doubles from €245, check availability at booking.com.

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Monasterio de Valbuena, Castile and León

• Doubles from £245, check availability at booking.com

A kitchen garden, impressive cellar and spa experience make this converted monastery set within vineyards spectacularly unique.

As you might expect in the Ribera del Duero, wine is a focus – from a welcome glass of sparkling verdejo to the hotel’s own production of Converso, an earthy tempranillo with well-balanced dark fruits. In the kitchen garden, rare-breed Black Castilian hens happily cluck away. Dishes made with produce nurtured here are expertly paired with the best regional wines in its three restaurants. Pickled partridge, ravioli stuffed with poultry and sheep’s cheese, game and mushroom rice and pigeon combine traditional regional ingredients with modern cooking techniques.

A converted 12th-century monastery with high arches, courtyards and cloisters has windows overlooking the vineyards and river. The spa has an intriguing St Peter’s Chapel experience which reimagines the design of the monastery’s working chapel into a private spa experience including a relaxing sauna, invigorating shower and bathing, and atmospheric lighting.

The hotel has forged ties with sympathetic businesses who share its values of sustainability and respect, and support for the land and community. At high-end bodega Pago de Carraovejas guests can discover the wine-making process, visit the cellars, taste the wines and have lunch at Michelin-starred restaurant Ambivium. castillatermal.com

Doubles from £245, check availability at booking.com

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Torralbenc, Menorca

• Doubles from £208, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com

A cluster of 19th-century whitewashed farm buildings, with views out over the sparkling Med, Torralbenc is now a luxury hotel, surrounded by 70 hectares of fields, orchards and vineyards in the south-western corner of Menorca. The restored estate not only makes its own olive oil but also produces wine.

Starting with just five hectares of vines in 2006, the property now has 16 hectares dedicated to growing grapes. Its first wine was bottled in 2016 and the estate now produces a merlot and syrah blend (all red berries and spicy black pepper with a tinge of toasted vanilla), a bright rosé from indigenous monstrell and parellada grapes (floral with strawberries and cherries on the palate) and an easy-drinking white blended from sauvignon blanc, viognier, chardonnay and parellada with citrus, stone fruits and floral notes.

Guests can book a vineyard experience with the hotel’s oenologist, exploring the vineyards on foot or by bike, learning how the wines are produced and enjoying a tasting, with local Menorcan cheeses, among the vines. torralbenc.com

Doubles from £208, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com

Only YOU Hotel Atocha, Madrid

• Doubles from £127, check availability at booking.com

Usefully positioned opposite Puerta de Atocha railway station, Only YOU Hotel Atocha impresses with its buzzy industrial-chic lobby (complete with barber, patisserie and restaurant) and complimentary glass of fizz on arrival. Spacious rooms have a sleek mid-century feel, and the hotel’s rooftop Sép7ima bar (with panoramic views of the city) puts on a lavish buffet every morning that includes pastries and churros, charcuterie and cheeses, fresh juice, fruit and cooked breakfasts. onlyyouhotels.com

Doubles from £127, check availability at booking.com

Son Brull, Mallorca, Spain

• Doubles from £530, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com

Guests at gastronomic bolthole Son Brull can ask the kitchen to pack a gourmet picnic if they’re heading out to hike or bike around the surrounding hills. This elegant finca, or farmhouse, in the foothills of the Serra de Tramuntana, dates back to the 12th century but the approach to food and wine is bang up to date.

The kitchen garden, where chef Rafel Perello sources the ingredients for his inventive menus and cookery classes, brims with home-grown herbs, salad leaves and vegetables, while the trees surrounding the hotel are laden with oranges, lemons and figs. The hotel has its own organic vineyard: pair its wines with dinner in the fine-dining restaurant, 365, where seasonal eight-course tasting menus showcase local Mallorcan ingredients. More casual, bistro-style dining can be had in the bar (with its ancient olive press) during the winter or on the terrace in sunnier months. sonbrull.com

Doubles from £530, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com

• Doubles from £197, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com

Check into hip Casa Bonay, a renovated mansion where traditional hydraulic floor tiles are mixed with Gaudí’s iconic paving stones, adding a hint of edginess to its ground floor lounges, coffee bars and restaurant. Stylish, pared-back bedrooms redefine luxury with hand-woven blankets from Els Teixidors, maxi-bars stocked with premium gin, vodka and single malt, and room service in the shape of a tiffin tin to be eaten in bed.

Casa Bonay makes other foodie hotels seem dull by comparison. Think house restaurant Bodega Bonay serving Mediterranean sharing plates, the hotel bar Libertine for grown up cocktails mixed with aplomb by a team of savvy mixologists, and the tropical-themed Chiringuito on the buzzy roof terrace for tapas as you watch the sunset. casabonay.com

Doubles from £197, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com

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El Gran Sueño, Asturias

• Doubles from £124, check availability at booking.com

There’s a “slow hotel” philosophy at El Gran Sueño, a boutique rural retreat in the mountains of Asturias. It uses renewable energy and serves only homemade, organic food, with at least one dinner a week meat-free.

Tuck into freshly baked bread with grated tomato and local artisan cheeses for breakfast (with a glass of freshly squeezed Valencia orange juice or pressed Asturian cider-apple juice) before heading out to explore the surrounding mountains and woodlands. Having worked up an appetite, return to base for a hearty, home-cooked three-course dinner (the vegan chocolate and beetroot brownie is a must-try pudding). elgransueno.es

Doubles from £124, check availability at booking.com

Corner House, Seville

• Doubles from £86, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk

Doubles at the Corner House, in the buzzy Alameda de Hércules (one of Seville’s most iconic squares), are very affordable. There’s also an in-house restaurant/bar, El Disparate, serving a selection of traditional and innovative dishes; if you’re lucky grab one of the tables on its spacious terrace, overlooking the square. thecornerhousesevilla.com

Doubles from £86, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk

Iturrienea Ostatua, Bilbao

• Doubles from £58, check availability at booking.com

This simple yet charming bed and breakfast is located right in the centre of the Old Town, housed in a property built in 1906 for a countess. Originally designed to look like a typical Basque country house, inside the largely modern décor is modest (simple white bedlinen, colourful quilted headboards, practical en-suite shower rooms) but homely. The nine bedrooms nod to the building’s history, with stone floors and wooden-beamed ceilings, and some have small private balconies. Breakfast is served in a country-style kitchen and stretches to local cheeses, charcuterie, sticky pastries and toast. iturrieneaostatua.com

Doubles from £58, check availability at booking.com

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Hospes Casas del Rey de Baeza, Seville

• Doubles from €135 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com

The Hospes Casas del Rey de Baeza is a charming hotel housed in a beautiful 18th-century ‘corral de vecino’ (characteristic of the city, these are apartments built round a courtyard) in the barrio Santa Cruz. hospes.com

Doubles from €135 per night, check availability at hospes.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com

Welcome to our collection of the best afternoon teas in London, updated quarterly to make sure you get the best afternoon tea of the moment. This round-up includes reviews of classic high teas at luxury London destinations such as Claridge’s, The Ritz, Fortnum & Mason and Harrods; as well as quirkier afternoon teas at The Shard, Sketch and Rosewood London. For more, check out our guide to the best afternoon teas outside of London and then discover the best dining experiences in London.

What are the origins of afternoon tea?

Afternoon tea (here are our favourite afternoon tea recipes) was apparently introduced to Britain in the 1840s by Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bedford, who complained of hunger during the late afternoon… something we can relate to!

What’s the difference between afternoon tea and high tea?

And in case you didn’t know, there is a difference between afternoon tea and ‘high tea’ the former is taken in the late afternoon (between lunch and dinner) and involves cakes, scones, cream and sandwiches; while high tea is a substantial evening meal, usually entirely savoury. A traditional afternoon tea is often called ‘high tea’ in other parts of the world though, which probably explains the confusion.

Best afternoon teas in London at a glance

Best traditional afternoon teas

• Best traditional tea for tea and shopping: Fortnum & Mason The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, from £62.50pp
• Best traditional afternoon tea: Claridge’s, from £75pp
• Best afternoon tea for art lovers: Mirror Room, Rosewood London, from £72pp
• Best for historical surroundings: Raffles London at the OWO, from £80pp
• Best for understated luxury: The Stafford, from £70pp
• Best American-inspired afternoon tea: Gatsby’s Room, The Beaumont, from £62pp
• Best afternoon tea for bohemian glamour: Petersham Nurseries, from £45pp
• Best afternoon tea for theatre lovers: Theatre Royal Lily Vanilli afternoon tea, from £49pp
• Best for luxury menu options: Corinthia Hotel, from £65pp
• Best kept secret: The Parlour at Great Scotland Yard Hotel, from £55pp
• Best afternoon tea near Buckingham Palace: The Goring, from £65pp
• Best iconic afternoon tea: The Ritz, from £67pp
• Best value iconic afternoon tea: The Wolseley, from £16.75pp 
• Best Asian-inspired afternoon tea: The Rosebery Lounge at Mandarin Oriental, from £68pp
• Best afternoon tea for pretty surroundings: The Landmark London, from £59pp
• Best afternoon tea: The Savoy, from £65pp
• Best for chocolate lovers: The Park Tower Knightsbridge, from £39pp
• Best for rare teas: NoMad London, from £55pp

Contemporary afternoon teas

• Best quirky afternoon tea: Sketch, from £75pp 
• Best afternoon tea with a theme: The Kensington, from £58pp
• Best afternoon tea for dessert enthusiasts: Cake & Bubbles, from £45pp
• Best afternoon tea for cocktail lovers: Lyaness, from £43pp
• Best al fresco afternoon tea: Number Sixteen, from £40pp
• Best afternoon tea with a view: TING at Shangri-La Hotel, from £69pp
• Best afternoon for kids: The Ampersand Hotel, from £49.50pp
• Best Scandinavian afternoon tea: Aquavit, from £25pp
• Best contemporary riverside afternoon tea: OXO Tower, from £45pp
• Best savoury afternoon tea: Cinnamon Bazaar, from £27.50

Best traditional afternoon teas in London

Fortnum & Mason, The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, London W1

• Book now at Fortnum & Mason The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, from £62.50pp, Virgin Experience Days, £160 for 2

Head to Fortnum & Mason for a traditional London afternoon tea, taken in an elegant salon opened by HM The Queen to mark her Diamond Jubilee. Fortnum’s pitch-perfect finger sandwiches – with not a curling corner in sight – are filled with the usual suspects, only far more luxurious: Suffolk cured ham with piccalilli, and rare bread hen egg with cress. Thick slices of soft smoked salmon, available in Fortnum’s food hall downstairs, are also excellent. Plain and fruit scones come warm, fluffy and served with whole pots of spread – the best of which was a velvety lemon curd (available to buy in the food hall) – and even more clotted cream.

Individual patisseries change with the seasons, with standouts including a subtly floral rose éclair, a modern take on Eton mess and lighter-than-air meringue topped with fresh berries. These are followed by more sweet treats chosen from the cake carriage (this time serious cakes, such as battenberg and matcha layer cake). Fortnum’s tea varieties include the famous smoky Earl Grey (the original blend to be sold at Fortnum’s and The Queen’s personal favourite); a sweet and floral New Zealand oolong; and an unusual sparkling tea. For champagne, highlights include a light Brut rosé, Fortnum’s Brut Sparkling from Cornwall and a perfectly smooth Blanc de Blancs.

Click here to read our full review of afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason 

Available from: Fortnum & Mason, Virgin Experience Days
Price: £62.50 for afternoon tea with a pot of Fortnum’s Tea; £62.50 for vegetarian afternoon tea with a pot of Fortnum’s Tea; £65 for savoury afternoon tea with a pot of Fortnum’s tea; £68 for high tea with a pot of Fortnum’s tea.
Address: Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London, W1A 1ER

Claridge’s, London W1

• Book now at Claridge’s, from £75pp
  

Afternoon tea has been a ritual here for almost 150 years and this luxurious redoubt for the rich and royal (no flip-flops, no intrusive photography), has turned it into an art form. In the stunning art deco lobby, guests are treated to a parade of perfectly rectilinear finger sandwiches, warm scones and beautiful, tweezer-precise cakes, delivered to linen-clad tables by staff who operate as smoothly as a Swiss timepiece.

Every detail is exquisite. Corn-fed chicken on rye comes with truffled mayonnaise. Chocolate choux are made with fine Valrhona chocolate. Claridge’s even stresses the heritage of the cucumbers (English, organic) which, dressed with chamomile-infused buttermilk, go into its version of that summer classic: cucumber sandwiches. Rare Tea Company expert Henrietta Lovell curates Claridge’s menu of loose-leaf infusions.

Available from: Claridge’s
Price: Traditional afternoon tea £75pp, champagne afternoon tea from £85pp, children’s afternoon tea £45pp
Address: Brook Street, Mayfair, London, W1K 4HR

Mirror Room, Rosewood London, London WC1

• Book now at Rosewood London, from £72pp

The Rosewood London is renowned for its theatrical and refined portrayal of the city’s best artworks in the form of an exquisite afternoon tea. The David Hockney-inspired art tea in particular captures elements of the artist’s most notable works, seamlessly blending nature-inspired designs with classic British flavours. The essentials are all still there – sandwiches, scones and patisserie, served in the grand Mirror Room – but there are plenty of contemporary twists throughout, too.

Starting with the savouries, seasonal flavours are showcased in the delicate cucumber, asparagus and soft cheese finger sandwich, plus a generously filled lobster and crayfish roll. The two other elements offer some welcome textural variation in the form of thin, crispy sourdough and rye crackers topped with smoked salmon rillet and chicken avocado on spiced tomato relish, respectively. Glossy, neat mini scones (plain and raisin) are served warm and are some of the best we’ve tried – very soft and light. Alongside jam and cream, they are served with a stand-out homemade lemon curd which is smooth, buttery and rich.

Appropriately for a tea inspired by Hockney, the final two rounds of patisserie resemble mini works of art. A colourful illustrated menu outlines the inspiration behind each creation. These are incredibly intricate, with layers of mousse, sponge and jelly – some positioned on a delicate almond sablé, and others embellished with chocolate vine leaves. First, a lighter duo of pre-desserts playfully combine flavours such as chocolate and passion fruit with earl grey tea. Then, the final trio showcases some of Hockney’s best works, from ‘A Bigger Picture’ to ‘The Arrival of Spring in Woldgate’.

There are a range of drinks options to accompany the tea, from champagne to a fruity cocktail, and an extensive selection of Mariage Frères teas. Service is speedy and friendly, guiding you through each element with confidence.

Available from: Rosewood London
Price: Art afternoon tea £75pp
Address: 252 High Holborn, London WC1V 7EN

Raffles London at the OWO

• Book now at Raffles, from £80pp

The conversion of the Grade II-listed Old War Office into a luxurious hotel has led to a plethora of new restaurants to discover, and our top pick is The Drawing Room, where afternoon tea is served. Deep leather sofas, panelled walls and a live pianist on a grand piano create a real sense of atmosphere. A quintessentially British setting, the tea overlooks Whitehall and Horse Guards Parade for a sense of classic London people-watching.

The afternoon tea menu changes seasonally. As well as a selection of classic sandwiches (think coronation chicken, egg mayo and cucumber), the tea kicks off with a delicate heritage carrot tart for an amuse-bouche. On our spring visit, patisserie highlights included a delicate elderflower and cucumber pavlova and a mini rhubarb tart filled with creamy rice pudding. Warm scones are served with classic clotted cream and strawberry jam. There’s an array of teas from around the world to choose from to pair with your delicacies: we tried a memorable apricot tea that was immensely fragrant and fruity. All teas are served with a tea timer to make sure your pot brews perfectly to your desired strength. Service is exceptional: knowledgeable, attentive and super friendly. It’s also possible to pair your tea with a one hour tour of the hotel, to discover more about the historic surroundings.

Available from: Raffles at the OWO
Price: Afternoon tea from £80pp
Address: Raffles London at The OWO,  Whitehall, London SW1A 2BX

The Stafford

• Book now at The Stafford, from £70 pp

The Stafford is our new favourite hidden gem for a luxury London afternoon tea. It offers the memorable five-star hotel experience, with faultless service and immaculate food throughout. The recently relaunched tea menu, with recipes created by Lisa Goodwin-Allen and head pastry chef Magdalena Velczenbach, offers a classic experience with gentle twists along the way.

Enjoy champagne served from a grand champagne trolley, and take waiter recommendations from the broad tea menu (an apricot fusion was our personal highlight). Classic sandwiches and warm fluffy scones follow, along with a mini cheese scone served with sour cream and chives. The memorable moment falls when the elaborate cake trolley is wheeled to your table and you can choose five ornate patisserie. Learn the history behind the ‘white mouse’ dessert and enjoy a fresh raspberry macaron or rich coffee choux bun. Anything you can’t finish can be boxed up to take home, too.

Available from: The Stafford
Price: Afternoon tea from £70pp
Address: The Stafford, 16-18 St James’s Place, London SW1 1NJ

Gatsby’s Room, The Beaumont, London W1

• Book now at Gatsby’s Room, The Beaumont, from £62pp

Enjoy a transatlantic afternoon tea in the luxurious Gatsby’s Room at The Beaumont hotel. The atmosphere is relaxed and intimate, with stunning art deco decor and live piano music. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s a great escape from the hustle and bustle of central London.

The menu consists of traditional afternoon tea classics with a subtle American twist. Tuck into coronation chicken, oak-smoked lox, devilled egg mayonnaise and salt beef. Choose from fluffy raisin or plain scones, and finish with delicate desserts – think salt water taffy, yuzu cream pie and vanilla pudding. Vegan alternatives and a children’s afternoon tea are also available.

The immaculate setting, friendly service and incredible food make The Beaumont a fantastic option for afternoon tea.

Available from: The Beaumont
Price: Traditional afternoon tea £62pp, champagne afternoon tea from £77pp, children’s afternoon tea £25
Address: 8 Balderton St, Brown Hart Gardens, London W1K 6TF

Petersham Nurseries, Richmond

• Book now at Petersham Nurseries, from £45pp

Petersham Nurseries is an eclectic mix of sculptures, vintage furniture, artfully decorated greenhouses and beautiful displays of plants and flowers. It’s quintessentially British with a hint of eccentricity. Adding to the bohemian glamour is the imaginative and beautifully presented afternoon tea, which is served from a handblown cake stand adorned with a bunch of seasonal flowers. The seasonally changing menu makes the most of locally sourced ingredients. We were served roasted red pepper & almond tarts, focaccia with burrata and nasturtiums and orange polenta cake with fig and crème fraiche – each bite is fresh and unique. Wash it down with a glass of rose petal prosecco for the ultimate treat. Browse the shop on your way out for trinkets, glasses and chic gardening wear.

Available from: Petersham Nurseries
Price: Garden afternoon tea £45pp, with prosecco £55pp.
Address: Church Lane, Richmond, Surrey, TW10 7AB

Theatre Royal Lily Vanilli afternoon tea

• Book now at Theatre Royal Lily Vanilli afternoon tea, from £49pp
  

With its sophisticated millennial pink and green marble-lined room with shining chandeliers, the Grand Saloon shares the grandeur of the Theatre Royal Drury Lane that it’s located in. As you enter, the glamorous Regency era scene is set by a speaker playing a string quartet versions of popular songs. This style is replicated throughout the afternoon tea with intricate smooth buttercream piping chocolate sponge cake, which is a signature of ‘queen of cakes’ Lily Vanilli at the Columbia Road bakery. The texture of the cake is perfection as it’s packed with a crunchy biscuit and salted caramel. From miniature fluffy canelés with pickled beetroot to smoky lapsang souchong glazed salmon on madeleines, the tea’s inventive savoury options, steering away from the traditional sandwiches, takes it to the next level.

A surprisingly quirky standout was the final dish, an absinthe mint chocolate chip ice cream which was inspired by the Regency era’s trend of exotic ices. Adding a touch of theatre, this was served on an opulent wooden ice cream trolly. The subtle aniseed flavour of the absinthe complemented the creamy mint ice cream. This is an afternoon tea full of sophistication and luxury.

Available from: Theatre Royal Drury Lane
Price: £49 for adults and £35 for children.
Address: Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, Catherine Street, WC2B 5JF

The Crystal Moon Lounge, Corinthia Hotel, London SW1

• Book now at The Corinthia Hotel, from £65pp

Afternoon tea at The Corinthia is set in the glamorous Crystal Moon Lounge dominated by a striking Baccarat crystal chandelier, underneath an array of fresh flowers. Traditional afternoon tea (£65 pp) comes with a choice of house blend teas served in three different strengths, including No 1 Aromatic, a delicate combination of flowery earl grey and soothing oolong; and No 3 Robust, a full-strength blend of assam, oolong and earl grey (stronger smoky notes with light tones of honey). Add a glass of refreshing Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée Brut champagne for an extra £10. Or go all out with the Laurent-Perrier rosé champagne afternoon tea at £85 pp, both served in Baccarat flutes. For ultimate luxury, there is even a caviar afternoon tea option.

A gold board showcases modern takes on classic British finger sandwiches – fine slithers of cucumber, light egg mayonnaise with mustard, smoked salmon with subtle hints of lemon curd, and salt beef with creamy horseradish on soft sundried tomato bread. Light, fluffy scones with honeyed glaze tops are kept warm in a small wooden presentation box. Accompaniments include classic strawberry jam, moreish rhubarb and Tonka bean jam and thick clotted cream. Patisserie change with the seasons: we had small dainty canelés kick off the sweet round (they were slightly overdone but packed a good kick of rum), followed by exotic passion fruit choux buns encased in a craquelin shell, a boozy trifle with crunchy apple and calvados chantilly cream, and a delicate dark chocolate brownie topped with a chocolate crémeux.

Available from: The Corinthia
Price: Traditional afternoon tea £65 pp, champagne afternoon tea from £75 pp
Address: Whitehall Place, Westminster, London SW1A 2BD

The Parlour at Great Scotland Yard Hotel

• Book now at from £55pp

British elegance and exciting patisserie in an afternoon tea designed in collaboration with royal perfumier Floris.

The Parlour Room is sophisticated yet modern, with printed wallpaper and checked flooring. The waiting staff were knowledgeable, discussing each tea and recommending pairings for each course – we tried a classic earl grey that was floral and citrussy.

The afternoon tea starts with an assortment of savouries, which were classics with a twist, using tarragon in the chicken mayonnaise, and pairing cheddar cheese with Guinness in gougères. We liked that the perfectly shaped scones arrived warm and with plenty of clotted cream and jam for all of them. Diving into the star of the show, five intricate pastries are meticulously layered and decorated. The fruity, fragrant strawberry and jasmine tartlet was the highlight, closely followed by a zingy blackcurrant and frangipane gateaux.

Available from: Great Scotland Yard Hotel
Price: £55pp, champagne afternoon tea £65pp
Address: 3-5, Great Scotland Yard, London SW1A 2HN

The Goring, London SW1

• Book now at The Goring, from £60pp

Traditional afternoon tea (£60pp) comes with a choice of Jing teas including the strong, slightly smoky Goring blend, and a floral oolong tea. Add a glass of refreshing Bollinger for an extra £10. Or go all out with the Bollinger rosé champagne afternoon tea that comes with fresh British strawberries and cream. A vibrant pea purée amuse bouche topped with crème fraiche and a cube of smoked salmon started the afternoon tea, followed by salty shredded chicken with fresh tomatoes on fluffy white bread and fresh salmon with crisp slithers of cucumber.

Warm with a soft middle and golden on top, the scones came with syrupy strawberry jam and thick clotted cream. For the sweet round, a soft choux bun encased in a craquelin shell was filled with whipped strawberry cream on a thick crunchy biscuit base, a dense lemon and poppy seed cake was topped with a dollop of zingy lemon curd and piped torched meringue; mini pistachio and raspberry loaf was moist and nutty; a sticky lemon macaroon with sweet tangy cream was incredibly moreish; and a silky dark chocolate tart with hibiscus had a crunchy bottom.

Available from: The Goring
Price: Traditional afternoon tea £60pp, champagne afternoon tea from £70pp
Address: 15 Beeston Place, London, SW1W OJW

The Ritz, Palm Court, London W1

• Book now at The Ritz, from £67pp

The Ritz is as iconic as the Queen, and this institutional British hotel keeps up tradition by serving 350 afternoon teas every day. It’s only fitting that afternoon tea at The Ritz is a lavish affair; the formal dress code requires men to wear shirt and tie, doors are opened for you by folk in top hats, and the resident pianist, Ian Gomes, who flutters away most days during afternoon tea service, used to play with Frank Sinatra.

Afternoon tea at The Ritz is taken in the Palm Court, an area raised up from the rest of the hotel’s lobby like a marble-floored stage. The Louis XVI-style set is beautifully ornate, with pristine white tablecloths laid out beneath intricate chandeliers, giant palms and gold-gilt mirrors. Choose from the 18-strong tea menu that has been curated and exclusively blended by The Ritz’s tea sommelier, Giandomenico Scanu. There are black tea blends, fermented Oolongs, herbal fruit teas and even The Ritz’s own Chai. We tried The Ritz Royal English, a classic black tea blend, combining aromatic Ceylon orange pekoe and rich Assam.

Available from: The Ritz
Price: Traditional afternoon tea £67pp, champagne afternoon tea from £82, children’s afternoon tea £48pp
Address: 150 Piccadilly, London, W1J 9BR

Click here to read our full review of afternoon tea at The Ritz

The Wolseley, London W1

• Book now at The Wolseley, from £16.75

The classic room at The Wolseley has become an institution over the years – choose a simple cream tea for £16.75 (scones and tea), the classic afternoon tea for £36.75, or go all out and order the champagne afternoon tea, complete with a glass of Pommery Brut Royal NV (£49.75).  Neatly cut finger sandwiches are made with various breads – succulent beef and horseradish on white, as well as cucumber (which was a little bland), smoked salmon on squishy brown bread, and Branston pickle on tomato bread. The coronation chicken sandwich was exemplary, with a lightly spiced curry mayo and plump sultanas.

Scones were pleasant and fluffy, but came on the stand with the rest of the sandwiches and cakes – by the time we got to them, they were a little less fresh than desired. Simple strawberry jam and clotted cream came in generous portions. A silky lemon meringue tart was finished with a shiny blow-torched meringue dome; well-spiced Dundee cake came packed with juicy fruit; and the sherry trifle included a fragrant vanilla set custard, topped with a tart, shiny sherry jelly. If you’re still peckish, the smartly dressed staff bring round trays of the tart of the day, on our visit, a large blue cheese and caramelised onion one, with a dark crunchy crust.

Available from: The Wolseley
Price: Cream tea £16.75, classic afternoon tea from £36.75pp, champagne afternoon tea £49.75pp
Address: 160 Piccadilly, St James’s London, W1J 9EB

The Rosebery Lounge at Mandarin Oriental, London SW1

• Book now at from £68pp

Afternoon tea at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park is taken in The Rosebery Lounge, a grand yet unstuffy dining room with high ceilings and a small, stylish bar offering a selection of wines and spirits, including Chêne Bleu Domaine De la Verrière rosé, Goose Island IPA and Hendrick’s gin. Speckled antique mirrors and contemporary abstract art line the walls, and individual metal coat stands (tree-like) are brought to intimate, low, dark-wood tables. Elegant chandeliers and large windows facing onto Knightsbridge high street make the lounge bright, and a rose and ginger scent infuses throughout the room.

We were greeted by a friendly and informative waiter who explained the options available: beer afternoon tea, teamaster’s choice, sake (read our guide to sake here) afternoon tea, mini afternoon tea (for children under 12) or traditional champagne afternoon tea. We opted for the latter, which came with R de Ruinart rosé champagne and R de Ruinart white champagne, both smooth, chilled and crisp, the rosé leaving slight floral notes after each sip.

Available from: The Rosebery Lounge
Price: Traditional afternoon tea £68pp, extra supplement for champagne, beer or sake pairings
Address: 66 Knightsbridge Green, London, SW1X 7LA

Click here to read our full review of afternoon tea at The Rosebery Lounge, Mandarin Oriental

The Landmark London, NW1

• Book now at from £59pp

Towering palm trees, giant orchids and an elaborate glass roof – you may mistake the Winter Garden atrium at The Landmark London for a luxury hotel in Dubai. But comfortable armchairs, soft lighting and crisp white tablecloths brings a bit of British to the table, and helps provide the perfect setting for an afternoon tea.

Adding to the elegance of it all, the William Edwards chinaware is adorned with an elaborate gold pattern and trim and the teapots are kept on a beautiful bespoke stand next to the table. The Landmark London has a variety of special blend teas – the Landmark Blend has a subtle sweet hint of Bourbon vanilla, while the Winter Garden Blend is a more traditional and aromatic afternoon tea blend (we highly recommend both)…

Available from: The Landmark London
Price: High Palms Afternoon Tea £59pp, Champagne Afternoon Tea £69pp
Address: 222 Marylebone Road, London, NW1 6JQ

Click here to read our full review of afternoon tea at The Landmark London

Thames Foyer at The Savoy, London W1

• Book now at The Savoy, from £65

The Thames Foyer room at The Savoy is the perfect setting for afternoon tea. A glass-domed ceiling floods the room with natural light and an impressive gazebo encasing a stone fountain full of pink flowers and greenery takes centre stage, to form an elegant winter garden. Start with a glass of champagne – rich Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV with a long finish, or step up and with a coppery pink Moet & Chandon Rose NV with zesty, wild strawberry notes. The extensive tea menu can be overwhelming, but the waiters are on hand to guide you to the best blend for you.

The Savoy Afternoon Blend combines Ceylon and Darjeeling in a crisp, refreshing tea with a hint of citrus. For something a bit different, though, try white peony & rose – a pretty brew of white tea buds and leaf with whole rose buds that add a subtle hint of fragrant Turkish delight. Lemon verbena with whole leaves is aromatic, with lemon zest pungency and mint-like freshness.

Available from: The Savoy
Price: Traditional afternoon tea £65pp
Address: The Savoy, Strand, WC2R 0EZ London, United Kingdom

NoMad London, WC2

• Book now from £55pp

Indulge in a delightful afternoon at NoMad, where the tranquil, light-filled orangery, nestled within the historic Grade II-listed old police station, offers a serene escape from busy Covent Garden.

Embark on a culinary journey with a three-course menu. You choose from an array of teas curated by London’s esteemed Rare Tea Company, ranging from exotic global blends like jasmine silver tip and genmaicha to timeless classics such as earl grey or English breakfast. For those seeking an extra touch of indulgence, the bar team presents six innovative cocktails for an added £18, perfect for a spirited afternoon lift.

The first course is savoury sandwiches, ranging from the classic egg salad elevated with black truffle and chive, to pastrami, daikon and mustard – paying homage to NoMad’s New York roots. For an enhanced experience, consider adding Imperial Osciеtra caviar served with griddled potato bread and bonito cream for an extra £23.

The sweet delights are crafted by pastry chef Martha Hernandez, whose artistic flair shines in creations like the sacher-torte, tropical cheesecake and the cassis and shisho tart, marrying zesty fruit with buttery, crumbly pastry.

Unable to finish? Leftovers can be boxed up for you to enjoy later, too.

Available from: NoMad London 
Price: Classic afternoon tea £55pp, caviar afternoon tea £78pp. 
Address: 28 Bow St, London WC2E 7AW

Best modern afternoon teas in London

Sketch, London W1

• Book now from £75pp

Aside from the other-worldly surroundings, the highlight of afternoon tea at Sketch has to be the tea itself. Waitresses scoot golden tea trollies around the room, each one stacked with glass jars of aromatic loose leaf teas – there are at least 40 to pick from, including whole rosebud, matcha, white peony and Taiwan red jade. Feel free to sniff before you choose, and refills are complimentary.

Sketch’s new caviar afternoon tea begins, as expected, with a spoon of rich, creamy Oscietra caviar (from Russian sturgeon) – vegetarians get little pearls of cold cauliflower as a clever substitute. Even more enjoyable was the accompanying take on boiled egg and soldiers: a 63 degrees egg yolk nestled inside a deeply flavoursome ‘egg white’ made from comté cheese mornay. Utterly indulgent, and one of the most exciting, innovative ways to kick off an afternoon tea that we’ve ever seen…

Available from: Sketch
Price: Classic afternoon tea £75pp, champagne afternoon tea from £89pp, children’s afternoon tea £45pp.
Address: 9 Conduit Street, London, W1S 2XG

Click here to read two reviews of afternoon tea at Sketch (classic afternoon tea and caviar afternoon tea)

The Kensington, London SW7

• Book now from £58 pp

If you’ve been to a few afternoon teas and are bored of the familiar flavours of sandwiches, then The Kensington hotel afternoon tea could be for you. The ‘Around the World in 80 Days’ tea is inspired by the character Phileas Fogg and his attempt to travel the globe. Although the tea itself takes place in the rather sedate hotel lounge, the aim is to transport you through the food.

Sandwiches, an extra savoury course and the patisserie are inspired by London, Rome, Paris and Cairo – from a warm mini beef pie to a classic Italian tiramisu, with falafel, hummus sandwiches and much more along the way. Opt for the additional glass of champagne, take your pick of teas from The Rare Tea Company, sink into the dangerously comfy armchairs and spend a few hours snacking your way round the globe.

Available from: The Kensington
Price: from £58pp, £76pp with a glass of Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut
Address: The Kensington, 109-113 Queen’s Gate, South Kensington, London SW7 5LP

Cake & Bubbles by Albert Adria, Cafe Royal, London W1B

• Book now at from £45pp

Cake & Bubbles is a dessert and champagne experience designed by multi-award-winning pastry chef Albert Adria. Located at the Hotel Café Royal in London, Adria has created a spectacle of sweet sensations, offered alongside a carefully curated selection of champagne and sparkling wine. Born out of Adria’s desire to open a dessert-only venue, the Sweet Afternoon Bubbles menu comprises three sweet courses, with an optional glass of (highly recommended) N.V. Venue Clicquot Brut. Upon arrival of the first course, beautifully presented on a golden embossed cake stand, Adria’s deep passion for delicate confections is clear. We were guided through the experience by friendly staff, starting from the bottom tier with baklava pistachio pillows that were light as air and a passion fruit crème with a touch of burnt caramel to balance the flavours. By far, the highlight of the menu was the ‘cheese cake’, a twist on traditional cheesecake, using sharp Baron Bigod cheese, enveloped in sweet white chocolate with hazelnut – an absolute must-try for cheese and cake lovers alike.

Available from: Cakes & Bubbles
Price: Sweet Afternoon Bubbles menu £45pp (with a glass of N. V. Venue Clicquot Brut £60pp)
Address: 70 Regent St., London, W1B 4DY

The Park Tower, Knightsbridge

Relatively new to the afternoon tea scene, The Park Tower Knightsbridge has partnered with Chantal Coady, who founded the luxury chocolate brand Rococo Chocolates, to create an afternoon tea experience for chocolate lovers – which also supports cocoa farmers in Grenada. The winter menu, which is served in its elegant lounge, features savoury treats like slow-poached chicken and herb pancakes, using thyme from the on-site herb garden, a quiche of wild mushroom with bitter chocolate and tarragon mayo, and a flourless lobster muffin with zingy beetroot ketchup. The star is, perhaps, the vibrant chocolate brownie pyramids with juniper mousse, but the mini Bramley apple and cinnamon tarts and Jaffa-like orange & dark chocolate cupcakes with homemade marmalade are equally delicious, too.

Available from: The Park Tower Knightsbridge
Price: Chocolate afternoon tea from £39 per person, champagne tea £59. £20 each for children.
Address: 101 Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7RN

Book the chocolate afternoon tea here.

Sri Lankan Tea at Lyaness, Southbank

• Book now at Lyaness, from £43pp

Ryan Chetiyawardana (My Lyan) was inspired by his memories of afternoon tea in his parents’ hometown of Galle in Sri Lanka for this delicious high tea at Lyaness, his sleek cocktail bar at Sea Containers hotel in Southbank.

All the classic components of an afternoon tea are present – from sarnies to patisserie – and celebrate Sri Lankan flavours, dishes and ingredients. Teas come courtesy of Rare Tea Co, sourced from Sri Lankan suppliers.

Savoury highlights include sandwiches of chicken kukul mas (a classic Sri Lankan chicken curry), meaty mutton croquette, and turmeric devilled eggs, but it’s the sweet section that really shines: the fragrant pandan swiss roll and wattalapam tart (a kind of creamy coconut custard) are especially delicious.

Lyaness offers a cocktail pairing for afternoon tea that’s not to be missed (including non-alcoholic alternatives). The aromatic curry leaf champagne with mango and Bombay Sapphire is aromatic and tropical; a daiquiri gets a delicate lift with coconut water, lime and grapefruit; and the Ceylon milk tea punch with black tea, clarified rice milk, tamarind and vodka is silky smooth.

Available from: Lyaness
Price: Cocktails and tea £63pp; champagne and tea £53pp; boozeless tea £43pp
Address: 20 Upper Ground, Southbank, London SE1 9PD

Number Sixteen, South Kensington, London SW7

• Book now at from £40pp

As soon as you step through the door of this pristinely manicured mid-Victorian white townhouse, co-owner Kit Kemp’s bold statements make themselves known. Textiles in the suite of drawing rooms range in colour from pistachio and pink to stylish yellow and purple, with unique artwork throughout – a huge wall-mounted birdcage marks the entranceway, books line the walls, and hand painted puppets guard the honesty bar stocked with spirits, wines and bubbles.

The summery selection of sandwiches and cakes offers something a bit different to traditional afternoon tea. Thick-cut honey roasted ham with refreshing dill coleslaw comes on black rye bread; beautiful courgette flowers are coated in a crisp and light tempura; and herbes de provence chicken fills a squishy glazed brioche bun. Pastries are pretty and dainty – a hint of violet adds depth to a creamy lemon-filled choux profiterole, rose cupcakes are subtly floral and the silky raspberry pannacotta provides a pleasantly tart finish.

Available from: Number Sixteen
Price: Traditional afternoon tea £40pp, champagne afternoon tea £52pp
Address: 16 Sumner Place, London, SW7 3EG

TING at Shangri-La Hotel, The Shard, London SE1

• Book now at from £69pp

If you delight in all things traditional, then afternoon tea at London’s TING is not for you. But if you’re open-minded, enjoy Asian food and would prefer to gaze across a sparkling city rather than a Victorian dining room, then you can’t get much better than TING at Shangri-La hotel, one of six restaurants in The Shard.

Initial impressions of TING (on level 35) are magnificent: the lift doors open onto a spectacular and uninterrupted panorama of London, dominated at first by St Paul’s Cathedral. Low tables and armchairs are sensibly arranged to soak up as much of the view as possible – we took three hours over our afternoon tea, so unique was the experience…

Available from: TING at Shangri-La
Price: Afternoon tea £69pp, champagne afternoon tea from £79pp
Address: Shangri-La Hotel At The Shard, 31, St Thomas Street, London, SE1 9QU

Click here to read our full review of afternoon tea at Ting

The Ampersand Hotel, Science afternoon tea, London SW7

• Book now at from £49.50pp

Just a stone’s throw from the Science and Natural History museums in South Kensington, it’s easy to see where The Ampersand got their inspiration from for this whacky afternoon tea – the perfect treat for budding scientists.

The room we take tea in is part English drawing room, part French tea salon, and comes adorned with comfortable sofas. As for the food, everything is made in-house – there’s a meticulously decorated raspberry cake planet with a white chocolate planetary ring, and moreish hazelnut and chocolate cake with a sharp mango mousse volcano. There are also chocolate dinosaurs and a citrus cocktail served in a laboratory beaker, to add to the Dr Jekyll experience. Portions are generous too, very welcome after a morning spent museum-hopping…

Available from: The Ampersand Hotel
Price: Science afternoon tea £49.50pp, with champagne from £59.50, (vegetarian options available)
Address: 10 Harrington Road, London, SW7 3ER

Click here to read our full review of afternoon tea at The Ampersand

Aquavit Nordic afternoon tea, London SW1

• Book now at from £25pp

Stockholm’s Martin Brudnizki has managed to create an intimate yet opulent feel to the high-ceilinged space using timber-paneled walls, polished brass, blue and burnt-orange leather seats and striking emerald green wall hangings.

We began with a selection of Swedish smørrebrød served on crisp sunflower-seed-studded rye bread baked at 6am that morning. Picture-perfect toppings for the open rye sandwiches included gravlax tartare, intense liver pâté and delicate venison tartare served with lovage. Shrimp skagen was a highlight, the Nordic version of prawn cocktail with punchy horseradish and dill mayonnaise covering plump little shrimp, topped with salmon roe. Fika, the Swedish tradition of taking time out for coffee and pastries, is still rife in Sweden and Finland, and Aquavit has tapped into this idea for the sweet round of its afternoon tea. Where traditional English afternoon teas serve scones, Aquavit keeps it Nordic with semla buns – mini dough balls filled with almond and cardamom paste, and whipped cream.

Available from: Aquavit
Price: The Fika afternoon tea £25pp, champagne Fika £37pp, the Aquavit afternoon tea £65pp
Address: St James’s Market, 1 Carlton Street, London SW1Y 4QQ

Click here to read our full review of Nordic afternoon tea at Aquavit

OXO Tower, London SE1

• Book now at from £45pp
  

OXO Tower Wharf is one of London’s most famous landmarks, noted for its iconic branded windows and sky-high restaurants. It’s hard to find the entrance if you’ve never been before – head to the pavilion in the middle of the building, then catch the lift up to the 8th floor, for the restaurant. Enjoy stunning views on your way to your table, that stretch all the way from Waterloo Bridge to St Paul’s Cathedral.

The atmosphere is considerably formal – think leather seats and slate tables with crisp ironed white tablecloths, and a slanting glass roof to make the most of those beautiful views. Afternoon tea menus are carefully explained and although the selection of sandwiches and cakes seems endless, portions here are dainty so it’s possible to try everything.

Available from: OXO Tower Wharf
Price: Traditional afternoon tea £45pp, champagne afternoon tea from £57.50pp
Address: OXO Tower Wharf, Barge House Street, South Bank, London, SE1 9PH

Click here to read our full review of afternoon tea at OXO Tower

Chai afternoon tea, Cinnamon Bazaar

• Book now at from £27.50

One of the best afternoon teas in London for savoury palates is the high chai tea at Cinnamon Bazaar. It doesn’t have the glitz and glamour of The Savoy, but it’s comfortable enough and the service is friendly. The menu puts a unique Indian-inspired view on afternoon tea, inspired by chef Vivek Singh’s roots in Kolkata, completely transforming it into something new. The tea is divided into chaats, nibbles (including a fish finger sandwich and chicken spring roll) and sweets. It makes a tempting change from finger sandwiches and scones and you’re sure to find a new favourite dish.

Available from: Cinnamon Bazaar
Price: Chai afternoon tea for two £27.50
Adress: 28 Maiden Ln, London WC2E 7JS

Still in the mood for cakes? Check out our best ever afternoon tea recipes now, and create your own feast at home…

Looking for the best rums? Rum has been having a renaissance of late as more and more drinkers embrace the spirit, both as a base for cocktails and as something to be sipped and savoured in its own right.

Intrigued but not sure where to start or which rum brands to try? Read on for our pick of the best premium rums available now, from clear white rums perfect for daiquiris to buttery, spiced numbers and dark, sultry spirits ideal for sipping.

Everyone loves a rum cocktail, but there are so many other sugarcane spirits to try: read our guide to find out everything you need to know about rhum agricole, cachaça, clairin and more. 

Best premium rum to buy 2024

Doorly’s 14-Year-Old Rum

• Available from Master of Malt (£69.90), The Whisky Exchange (£74.75)

A stunning Barbados rum, rich and layered with notes of tropical and orange fruits, cinnamon, milk chocolate, vanilla and dried fruit.

Available from:
The Whisky Exchange (£74.75)
Master of Malt (£69.90)

Takamaka Pti Lakaz

• Available from Master of Malt (£38.99), The Whisky Exchange (£51.50)

A Seychelles rum, rounded with notes of apricot jam, soft oakiness, brown sugar and baking spice. Smooth to drink, with a long finish, it’s one for sipping slowly.

Available from:
Master of Malt (£38.99)
The Whisky Exchange (£51.50)

Equiano Light

• Available from Master of Malt (£34.95), Amathus Drinks (£32.60), The Whisky Exchange (£33.50)

A globe-spanning blend of rums from two distilleries (one in Barbados, the other in Mauritius), Equiano Light is the blonder, honey-coloured sister to the original Equiano aged rum. It’s made from both barrel-aged and un-aged rums, and mimics sugarcane juice in aroma and flavour. Expect light and creamy vanilla notes, reminiscent of crème anglaise, with a delicate spiced sweetness and plenty of vibrancy. There’s also citrus peel and subtle woodiness in there, too. Equiano grants 5% of company profits and £2 from every bottle sold to various freedom and equality projects worldwide.

Available from:
Master of Malt (£34.95)
Amathus Drinks (£32.60)
The Whisky Exchange (£33.50)

Étän

• Available from Étän Rum (£41)

Made by five sisters – Laura, Briget, Noella, Caroline and Kareen – in London, this elegant golden spiced rum is distilled with five botanicals commonly found in Cameroon (Étän means ‘five’ in their parents’ dialect, Mungaka) in West Africa – fevergrass, ginger, cassia, vanilla and orange peel. Dry on the palate, it’s replete with warming, gingery spice, citrus and vanilla notes that make it perfect for sipping, or try with ginger beer.

Available from:
Étän Rum (£41)

Two Drifters Overproof Spiced Pineapple Rum

• Available from Master of Malt (£40.95), The Whisky Exchange (£41.95)

A vibrant spiced rum from carbon-negative Devon distillery, Two Drifters. It’s got bags of aromatic flavour, with masses of fresh, tangy pineapple plus caramel, vanilla, baking spice and a candied hint of foam banana sweets. Despite the hefty ABV – 63% – it’s smooth enough to sip neat, but would also work beautifully mixed with ginger beer or cola.

Available from:
Master of Malt (£40.95)
The Whisky Exchange (£41.95)

Five Rivers Indian Spiced Rum

• Available from Amazon (£40), The Whisky Exchange (£34.25)

Spiced rums tend to be on the sweet, syrupy side but this unusual white rum from India’s Sanghera Rum Company is a pleasingly modern, dry affair, with plenty of botanical oomph. Deeply aromatic, with notes of cardamom, coriander and cloves, and a peppery finish, the makers of this rum were inspired by English gin-making and it shows – it has an almost juniper-like character. Try mixing with tonic water.

Available from:
Amazon (£40)
The Whisky Exchange (£34.25)

Hattiers Egremont Premium Reserve Rum

• Available from The Whisky Exchange (£39.25)

A marrying of aged rums from the Dominican Republic, Panama, Barbados and Guatemala, this fragrant spirit was blended in Devon by the first ever British B Corp rum brand. Smooth and accessible, with caramel and cooked fruit notes, sweetness and gentle baking spice. One to sip neat.

Available from:
The Whisky Exchange (£39.25)

Diablesse Clementine Spiced Rum

• Available from Amazon (£31.24), The Whisky Exchange (£31.25)

Made with single-origin demerara rum from Guyana, this aromatic spiced rum smells like a kitchen where you’ve been baking festive treats all day – expect vibrant candied citrus, gingerbread and cinnamon notes, and a well-balanced sweetness so you can sip without it all getting too sickly.

Available from:
Amazon (£31.24)
The Whisky Exchange (£31.25)

Burning Barn Smoked Rum

• Available from Master of Malt (£34.99), Amazon (£33.50)

If you could distil a bonfire into rum then this is what you’d get. Its bold, almost meaty smokiness hits the nose and palate first, but is followed by more mellow treacle and subtle chocolate hints. This would make a cracking old fashioned with Angostura or orange bitters and brown sugar syrup.

Available from:
Master of Malt (£34.99)
Amazon (£33.50)

Twin Fin Spiced Golden Rum

• Available from Tesco (£27), Amazon (£26.50)

The distillery behind award-winning Tarquin’s Gin have turned their attentions to rum – another Cornish favourite – with this new Spiced Golden Rum. The spirit is inspired by coastal life and is created using a secret recipe of spices which flavour a blend of Jamaican and Dominican Republic varieties. The addition of a little PX sherry and aging over charred oak chips give this rum a warm, complex finish, with notes of vanilla, caramel and nutmeg – like a Cornish sunset in a glass. This is a super-smooth, rounded rum so perfect for sipping straight-up.

Available from:
Tesco (£27)
Amazon (£26.50)

The Duppy Share Caribbean Rum

• Available from Amazon (£27.50), Master of Malt (£28.97)

Blending three-year-old, traditional-style Jamaican rum with five-year-old Barbadian rum, this has notes of oak and vanilla on the nose, and a smooth, almost buttery mouthfeel. Ideal in a punch.

Available from:
Amazon (£27.50)
Master of Malt (£28.97)

Equiano

• Available from The Whisky Exchange (£40.95), Master of Malt (£40.50)

Believed to be the world’s first Afro-Caribbean rum, Equiano is a blend from distilleries in Barbados and Mauritius, aged for a minimum of eight years and finished in ex-bourbon casks. Expect a sweet butterscotch flavour, as well as sultana and buttery vanilla notes. Look out for an orange peel aftertaste, too. Best enjoyed simply poured over ice.

Available from:
The Whisky Exchange (£40.95)
Master of Malt (£40.50)

Belgrove Hazelnut Rum

• Available from Waitrose (£31), Amazon (£32), Master of Malt (£29.46)

This single-origin demerara hazelnut rum from Guyana has masses of toasted nutty notes in aroma and flavour, as well as creamy vanilla and some subtle cocoa. Sweet but not cloying, it’s smooth enough to sip on its own or over ice, and would also work beautifully in an old fashioned.

Available from:
Waitrose (£31)
Amazon (£32)
Master of Malt (£29.46)

Cut Smoked Rum

• Available from Master of Malt (£27.49), Amazon (£26.99)

Made from a blend of Jamaican and Trinidadian spirits, the smokiness (from burnt wood chips) in this spirit doesn’t dominate the palate, mingling instead with beguiling notes of tobacco, coffee, oak, rich vanilla and brown sugar.

Available from:
Master of Malt (£27.49)
Amazon (£26.99)

Diplomático Reserva Exclusiva

• Available from The Whisky Exchange (£43.95), Master of Malt (£40.95)

A rich, opulent Venezuelan rum with dried fruit, vanilla and baking spice notes, and subtle cocoa tones on the palate. With a rounded, velvety texture, this is one to sip neat and savour – preferably in front of a roaring fire.

Available from:
The Whisky Exchange (£43.95)
Master of Malt (£40.95)

Dead Man’s Fingers Spiced Rum

• Available from Ocado (£25), Amazon (£25)

It was a night drinking Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva that led to the birth of Neythan Hayes and Chris McGuire’s rum and seafood bar in St Ives and, later, their own Cornish rum, Dead Man’s Fingers. They infuse Caribbean rum with spices and age it for three years. The result has notes of orange peel, saffron cake (a Cornish speciality), vanilla and nutmeg – best served over ice.

Available from:
Ocado (£25)
Amazon (£25)

FAIR. Muscovado Rum

• Available from The Whisky Exchange (£47.25), Master of Malt (£42.49)

This unusual white rum from ethical drinks company FAIR. packs a punch, with fragrant herbaceous and menthol aromas, plus rich sugar (thanks to the rum’s high molasses content). Try in an aromatic daiquiri.

Available from:
The Whisky Exchange (£47.25)
Master of Malt (£42.49)

Vapoura Spiced Rum

• Available from Vapoura (£55)

This English spiced rum is macerated with ingredients like turmeric, black cardamom, vanilla, ginger and turmeric. It has a lively flavour profile, with spicy aromas and notes of orange-led citrus, ginger and butterscotch. Enjoy neat or mixed with cola.

Available from:
Vapoura (£55)

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Ever wanted to go on holiday to Croatia? Pavo Klaric, executive chef at Luciano restaurant in northern Istria, shares the diverse cuisine that this cross-country peninsula, a region of Croatia, has to offer. Be transported to a sunny isle of a melting pot of cuisines, from world-renowned truffles and olive oil to impressive seafood platters and ancient mountain specialities.

Want to learn more about regional cuisine? For some Italian inspiration, heck out our guides to the food of Puglia, Trentino or Sicily, or learn about Portugal with our guide to the cuisine of the Algarve. Feeling inspired to book a European getaway? Check out our picks of our favourite European city breaks and the best European vineyards to visit.

Jump to:

• Where to eat in Istria
• Where to stay in Istria

The cuisine of Istria: 10 things we love

Culinary crossroads

The unique positioning of the peninsula spanning Croatia, Italy and Slovenia, as well as its time being ruled by the Venetians and AustroHungarians, makes Istria a real melting pot. You can see influences in the buildings, dishes and cultures from these periods, and in less than an hour you can drive through three different countries, each with its own traditions and cuisines.

World-renowned truffles

This small region is one of the only places in the world to boast both black truffles, abundant in spring, and powerfully aromatic white alba truffles, that are ready to be plucked from the ground in early autumn. Locals slice and shave truffle onto everything from pasta and risotto to slow-cooked beef cheeks and even ice cream.

Dry-cured ham

Istrians use ancient techniques to cure meats with only air and salt. Pršut is the region’s symbolic dry-cured ham, similar to prosciutto. Dried pork loin, ombolo, is cured with sea salt and seasoned with spices, while the iconic Istrian sausage is cooked in malvasia before drying. All are served at aperitif time with local wines.

Wine

Istria’s positioning is ideal for growing vines, and winemakers have learnt techniques from neighbours in Italy. Grand crus are grown in Santa Lucia in Western Istria, where malvasia grapes thrive thanks to high, sun-soaked slopes and proximity to the sea, as well as Santa Elisabetta, at 330 metres altitude, surrounded by forests and hills, where black teran grapes are grown in white soil.

Traditional konobas

A konoba is a small house on a vineyard where farmers would take a break to drink wine and graze on bread and cured meat, often dried in the building itself. Nowadays, the word konoba is synonymous with a restaurant or tavern. Istria is still an agricultural region, so on Sundays many families meet in local rustic restaurants to enjoy traditional dishes such as sausages, stews, pastas and steaks, and reward their hard work.

Olive oil

Olive trees are like pets in Istria – everyone has one. The peninsula’s oldest fruit-bearing olive tree sits on Brijuni island off the south-west coast. At more than 1,600 years old, it is a symbol of the award-winning extra-virgin olive oil cooperatives that have been created in the region by families and small businesses, many winning international awards thanks to their fruity green notes and peppery finish.

Veli Jože cheese

The Istrian version of parmesan (named after the chef’s ‘tall’ grandpa Jože as well as a good giant from Istria legends), this rich, semi-hard cheese is made by a family-run business in Žminj, where cows graze on the unique herb-filled pastures that even alters the taste of the cheese in winter and summer. Locals use the cheese to make a traditional dish combining twirly fuži pasta and aromatic black truffles.

Wild asparagus

This variety of asparagus, grown in the peninsula’s dense woodlands, is much more bitter and mineral-rich than its regular counterpart. We use it in pasta, risotto and a traditional fritaja, and I add it to a contemporary dish with almond tuile, goat’s cheese curd and chamomile syrup.

Coastal influence

Istria is the largest peninsula in the Adriatic Sea and the sea has a big impact on the region, its people and its cuisine. Charming coastal towns including Rovinj, Pula and Poreč are full of restaurants serving fish platters, while the turquoise waters of Lim Bay are abundant with flat, sweet oysters.

Mountain food

Three hundred years ago, someone in the middle of the peninsula wouldn’t be able to make it to the sea in one day, so inland communities had to rely on meat, veg and wild game. Rabbit stew is still very popular, slowly cooked in red teran wine, veg and herbs, and finished with butter.

Where to eat in Istria

Tomaz Winery

A contemporary stone winery where you can taste Istrian wines with breathtaking views of hilltop town, Motovun. vina-tomaz.hr

Tony’s Oyster Shack

A rustic, shell-adorned shack perched on the turquoise waters of Lim Bay, where local character Tony shucks oysters after fun, informative boat trips.

Chiavalon

Learn about extra-virgin olive oil in a tour and tasting at this award-winning, family-run farm. chiavalon.hr

Puntulina

Perched on the rocks in Venetian-style Rovinj, this waterfront restaurant serves the likes of seafood platters, monkfish in malvasia wine and shrimp pasta. puntulina.eu

Stara Škola

A rural restaurant housed in an old school where chefs use garden and local produce in a five-course, sharing-style menu. staraskola.hr

Restaurant Zigante

This fine-dining restaurant works fresh truffles into an artistically presented tasting menu served with exceptional Istrian wines. restaurantzigante.com

Where to stay in Istria

Hotel Lone, Rovinj

Set in a secluded pine forest with a beach, just a short walk to Rovinj harbour, this elegant, contemporary hotel is designed in the image of a cruise ship. The expansive grounds, generous buffet breakfast, multiple swimming pools and sleek, spacious rooms with large balconies overlooking the turquoise waters makes the hotel ideal for families. maistra.com

Doubles from £195, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or tui.co.uk

San Canzian Hotel & Residences, Buje

Tucked away in northern Istria’s foliage-rich hills is this medieval hamlet turned intimate boutique hotel. The 28 rooms are decorated in soft, muted tones pepped up with 15th-century vintage furniture and vibrant beeswax canvases. Elegant on-site restaurant Luciano is strategically placed so guests can enjoy an aperitif from the 600-strong wine cellar as the sky turns pink over the olive trees, Adriatic Sea and Dolomites in the distance. Executive chef Pavo Klaric works homegrown and local ingredients into contemporary spins on traditional Istrian dishes – polenta-crusted cod on pine nut cream, rabbit slow cooked in red wine, and agnolotti pasta filled with young Istrian curd. After a breakfast of cured ham, crumbly cheese and fruits plucked from the abundant estate, take laps of the pool or pad down to the serene spa complete with Finnish sauna and candlelit hot tub. san-canzian.hr

Doubles from £303, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or mrandmrssmith.com

Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery, Bale

An elegant entrance lined with pine trees sets the tone for this prestigious, 12-hectare estate. Red-roofed stone residences are nestled into the trees, olive groves and vines for a secluded stay. The conservatory restaurant serves modern takes on Istrian dishes such as ravioli with Motovun black truffle, as well as vegetables from the garden doused in olive oil, while the swish new winery hosts tastings of the estate’s award-winning wines grown in the rich red soil. meneghetti.hr

Doubles from £466, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com

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